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From Music to Cylinder: An Eight Step Method

by 
Charlie Hind

 

The first question most people ask after seeing and hearing a music box for the first time is "How did they get all those pins in the right place?" In 1986 I, too, was asking that question. I had decided to make a music box, and I knew almost nothing about the subject. What had led me to this point was a keen interest in musical instrument making, a fascination with indexing and gearing, and an assortment of machine tools that I had accumulated for making various other musical instruments. A music box seemed to be the perfect medium through which these three attributes could be brought together; and, luckily, I had no idea how complex it was going to be. By the time I had figured that out, I was hopelessly obsessed.

  
Through the interlibrary loan program I borrowed one of Arthur Ord-Hume's books on music boxes and there discovered the existence of The Musical Box Society International. I was on my way. After joining the Society and buying most of the books that were available, I gradually began to realize that I wasn’t going to read about how to make a music box. On the subject of putting music on cylinders, I found that much had been written, but little said. By this I mean that reading the literature didn’t tell me what I needed to know in order to be able to drill a cylinder in my shop with my tools. In designing other musical instruments, I have found that processes used in the past are not necessarily applicable to what I can do in my shop. I have become accustomed to figuring out how to achieve the same results with the machines and skills (or lack of) that I have at hand.
Having a rotary table graduated in degrees, I decided that the most practical method of locating the pins on the cylinder would be to convert every note of the music into degrees which could then be dialed into the rotary table. The nice thing about this system is that it allows all of the work to be done on paper, then checked and rechecked before the cylinder is drilled. It is a tedious task, but it does have one redeeming quality---it works, and it works very well.

  
The system is broken into eight distinct steps; and to demonstrate its application here, I will show how I used these steps to pin Bach’s Three-Part Invention No. 11 in G Minor (Figure 1) onto a two inch diameter cylinder.


Figure 1.

 


Figure 2.

The numbers underneath each note signify which comb teeth are tuned to that note.

 


Figure 3.

This chart correlates longitudinal and circumferential coordinates.

It is a fairly straight forward process to cross reference Figures 1, 2, and 3 and see how every note corresponds to a particular degree location in Figure 3. While it is beyond the scope of this article to explain the basics of musical notation, here are some comments about certain areas which might raise questions.

This process of assigning comb teeth to degree locations is continued in the same way throughout the piece of music. When all the paperwork is completed, the cylinder to be drilled is placed between centers in the lathe. The rotary table is mounted on the outboard side of the lathe headstock and connected to the hand wheel of the collet closer so that when the rotary table is turned, the lathe spindle also turns. The holes are drilled with a Foredom flexible shaft hand piece mounted horizontally on the lathe cross slide. The drill is fed into the cylinder with the cross slide hand wheel.


 Longitudinal indexing is achieved by moving the lathe carriage left and right. A dial caliper or digital readout is mounted to the carriage to insure precise repeatability. This longitudinal spacing is, of course, determined by the length of the comb and the distance between the tips of the comb teeth, factors which are influenced by the complexity of the music, the number of tunes being pinned and the whims of the maker.  


In closing, there are many different ways to perform most operations in the shop. The best way is usually one that assures the desired results with the least amount of effort. This is not to imply that using the system I have described here is a small amount of work. On the contrary, it is a staggering sacrifice of time and mental energy.

 
So, what is the BEST way to drill and pin a cylinder music box? ANY WAY THAT WORKS! 

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